Ramonet's 2016 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is also among the white wines of the vintage, nipping at the heels of their monumental Montrachet. Opening in the glass with a classy bouquet of lemon oil, white flowers, crushed rocks, mint and beeswax, it's full-bodied, powerful and very incisive, with a satiny attack, a deep and layered mid-palate and a long, searingly intense finish. Concentrated and tensile, it's the quintessential Chevalier-Montrachet.

The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is a magical wine, offering up a youthfully reserved bouquet of lemon oil, preserved citrus, white flowers, subtle oak vanillin, wheat toast and a smoky top note. On the palate, the wine is searingly intense, with superb concentration, lovely depth and dimension and incredible energy in this ripe white Burgundy vintage. Unsurprisingly, this is the most tensile, vertical wine in the Ramonet cellars this year and will benefit accordingly from bottle age.

The big, bold, and sultry 2001 Chevalier-Montrachet is a highly expressive, fleshy, supple wine packed with spices, pears, and minerals. This white chocolate, truffle, cream, and spice-scented beauty is medium-bodied, concentrated, and sexy. Projected maturity: now-2010. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel; (212) 572-7725

The 1999 Chevalier-Montrachet displays oak, minerals, and flowers in its aromatics. This medium-bodied, nuanced, rich wine possesses outstanding depth and purity. "We're not used to making such refined wines at Ramonet. We're more into the Caterpillar structure," said Noel Ramonet. This is an elegant wine that most certainly would have merited a score in the nineties were it not for a touch of dryness in the finish. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.

Ramonet's 1998 Chevalier-Montrachet displays spicy mineral aromas. On the palate, this potentially outstanding wine has impressive power, focus, delineation, and refinement. Toasted oak, pear, and apple flavors are found throughout its intense personality. Its long finish ended on a dry note that caused me some concern. If that seemingly tannic (yes, in a Chardonnay) finish is eliminated in this wine's final stages of elevage, it will merit an outstanding score. Projected maturity: 2002-2009. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.