Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils Blanc, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

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Usseglio's 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a blend of 30% each Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, 20% Clairette Rose and 10% each Bourboulenc and Clairette, made and matured in stainless steel. It's pristine on the nose, boasting delicate hints of honey, nectarine and white peach, while the medium-bodied palate is clean, crisp, ripe and attractive. It's a pretty, refreshing wine, albeit one without that much weight or richness. I would drink it on the young side, while cellaring the Pure Roussanne bottling. Tasted blind.

Somehow Usseglio managed to maintain a sense of lime-zest freshness in his medium to full-bodied 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc. It's a large-scaled, generous wine with broad melon and nectarine notes, but it also has a crisp spine of acidity running from mouthwatering start to lip-smacking finish. Drink it over the next few years.

The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is a bit richer than Usseglio's C?tes du Rh?ne, but it remains essentially fruit-driven. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne and Bourboulenc, it delivers hints of tangerine, pineapple and melon on a soft, creamy mouthfeel that lingers easily on the finish.

Crisp, lean and fresh, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc from Raymond Usseglio is dominated by lime and tonic notes on the nose. It's medium to full-bodied and picks up hints of honeyed richness and pineapple on the finish. It should drink well for 3-4 years.

Raymond Usseglio's 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is one of the few I thought could actually benefit from time in the cellar. It's tight and zesty, with lean notes of melon and anise that appear to need a year or two to loosen up and flesh out.