A hugely diverse mix of grape varieties—Grenache makes up the largest portion, at 38%, with none of the others (including multiple white varieties) accounting for more than 10%—macerated four months on skins in amphorae and then aged in amphorae for another 18 months, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Apotres offers up unique scents of asphalt, mocha, celery seed, red raspberries and cherries. It's medium to full-bodied, tight and structured, yet not hard or even overly firm, streamlined on the palate and finishing long. Tasted blind.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Apotres was made in amphora, with four months of maceration. Based on Grenache, it includes a high proportion of other traditional varieties, including some white grapes. It's exquisitely perfumed, with enchanting scents of strawberries, roses, garrigue and black tea. Full-bodied but delicate and silky in feel, it builds on the finish, like a great Burgundy. With only 3,000 bottles produced (and none in 2018), it will be hard to track any down but well worth the hunt.

Largely Grenache, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Apotres is a rich, extracted, tannic beast. Although full-bodied and loaded with black cherry fruit, I'm not sure the tannins will fully soften before the fruit starts to fade. It's still darn impressive. Give it a few years in the cellar and then drink it over the next decade or so.

A new cuvée (for me anyways) that’s made from 80% Grenache and a mix of other permitted varieties (quite a few of which are white), the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Apotres is a full-bodied, broad, open knit and charming effort that offers lots of darker fruits, ground herbs, pepper and a hint of leather. Aged all in concrete tanks, it should drink nicely on release and keep through 2025.