Similar in makeup to the le Vassal, the 2017 Languedoc Puech Noble is just a bit more intense and even fresher on the finish. Notes of almond paste and green peppercorn remain in the background, while tart pie cherries provide plenty of lively fruit in this medium to full-bodied red that finishes taut and crisp but with silky tannins. It includes about 5% Carignan, used to boost the wine's acidity without resorting to other means.

Although my colleague, David Schildknecht, covers the Coteaux de Languedoc region, when I visit Rostaing I always taste his Coteaux de Languedoc Puech Noble, and his 2009 is a blend of 70% Syrah, the rest equal parts Mourvedre and Grenache, and includes 100% stems. A sleeper of the vintage that sells for a song, it is one of those wines I search for on restaurant wine lists when I am traveling as it is a great value. Rich, peppery, blackberry and black currant notes intermixed with notions of kirsch, licorice and tapenade are found in this stunning 2009. The good news is that there are approximately 1,400 cases produced. Rene Rostaing’s elegant style is well-displayed in both 2010 and the riper, more fleshy, exuberant 2009 vintage. Always the sexiest wine in Rostaing’s cellar is the Cote Rotie Cote Blonde. It includes 3-4% co-fermented Viognier and is always the most seamless wine resembling haute couture. Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484