An assemblage of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre, both aged in demi-muids, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Collection Charles Giraud features a hint of brown sugar on the nose, then waves of blueberries, black cherries and plums, plus some more savory suggestions of black olives. Full-bodied and showing tremendous richness and depth, it's sturdier and denser than the Auguste Favier, with a long, dark, earthy finish and plenty of tannin. Give it some serious time in the cellar. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Boasting the darkest fruit of the three 2018s from Saint-Préfert, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Collection Charles Giraud delivers notes of black cherries and dark chocolate, plus hints of wintergreen, cassia bark and baking spices. It's full-bodied but less expansive on the palate than the others, compact and dense without being heavy or overdone, and it's framed by ripe but supportive tannins. Mexican chocolate and cola notes linger elegantly on the lasting finish.

Full-bodied, richly concentrated and velvety-textured, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Collection Charles Giraud is one of the top wines of the vintage. A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre, it offers up seductive notes of dried spices and cola, plus plenty of plummy fruit. It's lush and long on the finish, folding in hints of clove, allspice and star anise. Nearly approachable now, it should cellar well through 2035.

The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Collection Charles Giraud is a 60-40 blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre, fermented with all the stems. There's a hint of cocoa, but raspberries and strawberries are the dominant fruit flavors in this lively, zesty wine. Trace notes of mint, lavender and tea leaf add complexity. Full-bodied and velvety in texture, it's intensely concentrated and rich yet not overly heavy or overripe (it weighs in at 15.5% alcohol), with a lingering, elegant finish. It's a tour de force that should age for two decades or more, and it will be interesting to see how it compares to the perfect 2010 after it's had a few years in bottle.

The blend of the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Collection Charles Giraud is 60% Grenache and a hefty 40% Mourvèdre. Yes, it's chocolaty ripe, but it also boasts enlivening hints of thyme and rosemary along with brighter notes of cherries. The tannins are powerful yet supple, giving this big wine a sense of velvety elegance on the lengthy finish. Wow.