Gewurztraminer claims the largest single share of acreage chez Ehrhart, and his 2004 Gewurztraminer Hengst – while not terribly concentrated – delivers pure fruit character, suggestions of chalky terroir, and lovely aromas of rose petal, sweet pea, and smoked meats. Subtle sweetness supports this wine’s perfumed persistence.Philippe Ehrhart largely markets wines as “Domaine Saint-Remy,” but those that are shipped to the U.S. appear under his own name. The best of these (all, incidentally, raised in tank) display purity without great intensity or complexity, but his young Rieslings displayed oddly developed, fusil, sometimes bitter phenolics.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083.