Intense and strikingly pure-fruited peach and apple along with whiffs of smoke inform the nose of Ehrhart’s 2005 Pinot Gris Brand. Polished and silky in the mouth, this lingers with pear and apple essence, a hint of sweetness, smoke, tart apple skin, and brown spices. Philippe Ehrhart largely markets wines as “Domaine Saint-Remy,” but those that are shipped to the U.S. appear under his own name. The best of these (all, incidentally, raised in tank) display purity without great intensity or complexity, but his young Rieslings displayed oddly developed, fusil, sometimes bitter phenolics.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083.

Ehrhart’s 2004 Pinot Gris Brand opens with notes of peach preserves, smoke and white raisin. Silken-textured and nobly rich on the plate, it nevertheless displays a refreshing cut of acidity, manifesting itself as juicy pineapple and mandarin orange. Polished, refined, satisfying and soothing in the manner of most wines at this address, it evinces just a hint of warmth in its finish.Philippe Ehrhart largely markets wines as “Domaine Saint-Remy,” but those that are shipped to the U.S. appear under his own name. The best of these (all, incidentally, raised in tank) display purity without great intensity or complexity, but his young Rieslings displayed oddly developed, fusil, sometimes bitter phenolics.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083.