The negociant wines include the delicious, crisp, almost Chablis-like 2009 and 2010 Sablet Le Fournas. The little village of Sablet, which is adjacent to Gigondas, is known for its sandy soils and also is an excellent microclimate for white varietalsThe 2009 is slightly fuller and more evolved than the 2010. One of the long-time benchmarks for superb Gigondas is Yves Gras’ estate on the high plateau several kilometers outside the entrance to this old Roman village. He has also expanded into the negociant end of the business with his Santa Duc Selections, which are very reliable wines worth a serious look. Until 2007, there were consistently two cuvees of Gigondas made in top vintages. With the finest vintages, Gras has now added a 100% Grenache cuvee called Grand Grenache 66, from a tiny parcel of vines and essentially just one small foudre. Turning back to the basic wines, they offer good value and are top-flight wines. The newest baby for Yves Gras comes from his purchase of 1.23 hectares (essentially about 3+ acres) of old vines planted with 100% Grenache in the Chateauneuf du Pape lieu-dit in the very north known as Font du Loup.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2008 Cotes du Rhone Sablet Le Fournas is a very strong effort from a year that was better for whites than for reds. I was surprised it is holding up as well as it is. These are crisp, light to medium-bodied, dry whites to drink in their first 1-2 years of life. The ebullient Yves Gras put me through a wonderful tasting of all his wines. His negociant operation under the Santa Duc Selections brand continues to expand. As most insiders are aware, the village of Sablet is well-known for its sandy soils and high quality white wines. Gras has produced two very good vintages of this cuvee, which is a blend of 35% Viognier, 35% Bourboulenc and the rest equal parts Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Yves Gras first made his Gigondas Grand Grenache 66 in 2007. An amusing story is that when I took my notes on it, he told me it was going to be called Grand Grenache GG and when I read through my notes, the two G’s looked like two 6's, so I called it Grand Grenache 66. Gras was on vacation when he began getting calls from all over the world ordering the 66 cuvee. He had no idea what that was since he had not made a 2007 Grand Grenache 66, but rather a Grand Grenache GG. To make a long story short, he ended up changing the label on the 2007 to Grand Grenache 66. I’m not sure if he intends to keep that name or not.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

A delicious white from the Cotes du Rhone village of Sablet, the 2007 Sablet Le Fournas is a blend of 35% Viognier, 35% Bourboulenc, and the rest white Grenache and Clairette. Crisp and fresh with honeyed grapefruit and other citrus characteristics, this light to medium-bodied, delightful white reveals good acidity. It can be drunk with many different foods over the next year. One of the reference points of Gigondas as well as one of the model winemaking estates in the southern Rhone that of Yves Gras, his beloved Domaine Santa Duc. He also produces some negociant wines, which are marketed under the Santa Duc Selections moniker. Under the Domaine Santa Duc label, Gras produces one of the best buys in Cotes du Rhone, his Les Quatres Terres. Traditionally, there have been two cuvees of Gigondas produced at Domaine Santa Duc, the Cuvee Tradition and Les Hautes Garrigues (which is made in only the top vintages). However, in 2007, a new, 100% Grenache, 4,000-bottle cuvee has been produced. All three of these Gigondas are exhilarating wines of superb quality. They set reference points for what Gigondas can be. Only Louis Barroul at St.-Cosme achieves the same quality.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The Chablis-like 2006 Sablet Le Fournas is dominated by Viognier and Bourboulenc with some Clairette and other grapes. It is fresh and has loads of mineral and white citrus as well as a hint of quince. It is a delicious dry wine to drink over the next several years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2004 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Sablet La Fornas is a blend of 35% Viognier, 35% Bourboulenc, and the rest Grenache Blanc and Clairette. Aromas of orange skin, pear, minerals, and flowers emerge from this medium-bodied, tasty, crisp, austere, refreshing white. Enjoy it over the next 1-2 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083