Readers looking for a blockbuster wine from the negociant end of this business should check out the 2009 or 2010 Rasteau Les Blovac. Both of these huge, massive wines are classic Rasteaus, made from old vines and possessing loads of chocolate, scorched earth, roasted herbs and layers of kirsch and even blacker fruits, with massive body and some tannins to shed. They are not for everybody, but they are intriguing wines that are faithful to their appellation. One of the long-time benchmarks for superb Gigondas is Yves Gras’ estate on the high plateau several kilometers outside the entrance to this old Roman village. He has also expanded into the negociant end of the business with his Santa Duc Selections, which are very reliable wines worth a serious look. Until 2007, there were consistently two cuvees of Gigondas made in top vintages. With the finest vintages, Gras has now added a 100% Grenache cuvee called Grand Grenache 66, from a tiny parcel of vines and essentially just one small foudre. Turning back to the basic wines, they offer good value and are top-flight wines. The newest baby for Yves Gras comes from his purchase of 1.23 hectares (essentially about 3+ acres) of old vines planted with 100% Grenache in the Chateauneuf du Pape lieu-dit in the very north known as Font du Loup.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Chocolaty, earthy, and full-bodied is the 2003 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Les Blovac, a blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 15% Mourvedre. A deep ruby/purple hue is followed by scents of chocolate, berries, truffles, and a hint of scorched earth in this full-bodied, rustic, flavorful, substantial wine. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Thick and powerful. Reflecting the heat of the vintage, it’s filled with dark, roasted flavors of date, prune, coffee and molasses. Drink now. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 88

The 2001 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Vieilles Vignes Le Blovac offers up aromas of sweet white chocolate, black currant, tobacco leaf, and hickory-like barbecue spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich, and substantial, it lacks charm, but compensates for that with power and forcefulness. Consume it over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083