Where the percentage of stems and whole clusters hovered around 20% for his other 2007s, Trapet utilized around 40% for his 2008 Chapelle-Chambertin and other grand crus. Rose petal, rose hip, wild cherry, and clean, marrowy, multi-boned beef stock scent and flavor this phenolically refined Pinot that shares with Trapet’s “Capita” bottling its uncanny combination of creaminess with fresh fruit vivacity ? and, one can add in this instance: clarity. The interplay of bittersweet berry, floral, and herbal elements against a subtle background of meat stock and wet stone makes for an absorbing as well as enveloping finish. Look for this to merit 7-10 years of attention. I couldn’t help thinking that the 2007 and especially the 2008 vintage would be a test of Jean-Louis Trapet’s biodynamic methods and faith, as well as of his predilection for vendange entier. There was a lot to like about his 1995 and 1986 collections over and beyond the obvious earnestness and integrity of their author, but one could scarcely claim that precision and purity of fruit were these wines’ fortes. Trapet has passed the test, his faith unshaken and his methods successful in rendering two fine collections that exhibit precise aromas and flavors. Indeed, there are few if any other addresses where I would rank both the 2007s and 2008s ahead of the 2006s. There was, however, a heavy price to be paid for this success, in the form of drastically-reduced yields. Trapet joked that “there was just as much rot and difficulty in 2008 as in 2007; the difference was you had to put up with it for longer.” He held off harvesting in 2008 until September 29, and had to perform a severe selection. None of the 2007s (with potential alcohols ranging from 12.5-13.5%) were chaptalized – and the 2008s only slightly.A Patrick Lesec Selection (various importers), Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23

The 1991 Chapelle-Chambertin is exceptionally tannic, as well as hollow, compact, and short, with an attractive loamy, underbrush, aged beef-sort of aroma. Despite that appealing characteristic, it is hard to get excited by this wine's harshness and rough tannin. I am still holding out hope that the young son of Jean Trapet, Jean-Louis, will get this domaine back on the right track. However, the 1991s are unexciting wines. How many pitiful examples of Chambertin must the consumer endure? Importer: Vineyard Brands (Robert Haas), Chester, VT.

Jean Trapet's son, Jean-Louis, is now making the wines at this domaine. He has implemented some fundamental changes, such as (1) extending the maceration by 3-4 days, (2) pruning for lower yields, and (3) considering the possibility of organically farming his vineyards. The wines are still filtered, but Jean-Louis claims the filtration is less severe than in the past. When I tasted these wines in November, 1991, prior to bottling, I thought they were average to above average in quality. After bottling, I am less certain. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT.