The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières unwinds in the glass with scents of sweet citrus fruits, white flowers, wet stones and struck match. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's a concentrated, broad-shouldered wine underpinned by racy acids and chalky dry extract, uniting sun-kissed fruit with mineral drive.

Aromas of orange oil, peach, pastry cream, freshly baked bread and hazelnuts—framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction—preface the 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières, a medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated wine that's deep, rich and dramatic, with lively acids and a long, penetrating finish. This, too, has turned out brilliantly.

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières has turned out especially well, unfurling in the glass with a youthfully reserved nose of crisp yellow orchard fruit, citrus oil, iodine, smoke and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, chalky and inactive, it's deep and textural, built around fine structuring dry extract and tangy acids. More immediately approachable than the stunning 2017 rendition, it's nevertheless a serious, age-worthy wine.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is performing brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with a textbook bouquet of citrus oil, crisp green apple, Anjou pear, mandarin oil, crushed chalk and struck flint. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's muscular but tight-knit, with racy acids, excellent concentration and a long, mineral finish. From 65-year-old vines planted on the SO4 rootstock, Germain tells me this parcel isn't very vigorous and always gives tiny yields.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières has a pretty white peach/peach skin, honeysuckle and passion fruit-scented bouquet that is very attractive although you could well argue that it fails to articulate the mineralité of Les Perrières. The palate is well balanced with fresh acidity, quite saline toward the second half as if the wine has suddenly remembered where it comes from and it finishes with a lovely twist of sour lemon. This is a multifaceted and quite mercurial Meursault from Girardin.