Solid, well-made white Burgundy from an appellation better-known for its reds. Blends straightforward aromas and flavors of woodsmoke and peaches in a medium-weight wine.——J.C.(10/1/2003)—— 87

Girardin's Santenay Le St. Jean has a fresh and lively nose. It is a silky-textured, light-to-medium-bodied, ripe, well-structured and white pepper and mineral-infused wine. It will be at its best between now and 2001.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.Note: Vincent Girardin sells wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars (Eric Solomon, tel (212) 924-4949). The wines marked with an asterisk (*) indicate that the same vineyard designation can be found through European Cellars, but the wine may not be the same as those listed here as Eric Solomon selects his barrels.

Girardin is one of the few believers in white Santenays, having noticed that the strip of terroir possessing 1er Cru vineyards of neighboring Chassagne Montrachet continues through his commune. While others are planting Pinot Noir, Vincent pushes forward with Chardonnay. Revealing stony and rocky aromas, the Santenay Le St. Jean exhibits a silky texture in addition to flavors of freshly ground white pepper, minerals, and toast. This is a refreshing wine made for near term drinking. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT; tel (802) 875-2139.Note: Vincent Girardin sells wines under the Baron de la Charriere label to European Cellars (Eric Solomon, tel (212) 924-4949).