The Fallers' 2006 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Selection de Grains Nobles displays such superficial sweetness for now that it is hard to pull out - and possibly also to appreciate - its virtues. Candy cane-like cinnamon, cyanic fruit pit bitterness, black tea, and musk are all elements in this thick and rather inscrutable elixir whose sheer finishing intensity is breath-taking, even if - like me - one is neither especially enamored by its flavors nor convinced of future harmony. This should certainly be revisited in a few years, and its lifespan is likely to be measured in decades. This year, Domaine Weinbach will receive its official certification as organic and biodynamic growers. The Fallers did well in the difficult 2006 vintage - especially with those Gewurztraminer harvested before botrytis gained the upper hand - and with good reason expressed elation over the vibrancy and refinement that characterizes most of 2007s.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

A subtle spicy melange and perfume-like aromas make up the nose of the 1998 Gewurztraminer Furstentum Selection de Grains Nobles. Massively concentrated and thick, this luxuriant wine has an oily texture as well as a full body. Its layers of spicy red fruits coat the taster's palate and linger throughout its impressively long, flavor-packed finish. Projected maturity: 2003-2020.(Not yet released)Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.