Intense aromas of smoke-laden pears, quinine, bergamots, and peaches dominate the superb 1999 Tokay-Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles. Full-bodied, lush, and refined, this is an opulently rich, luscious wine, crammed with copious quantities of white and yellow fruits. It is harmonious, exceptionally well-balanced, and bursting with flavor. While many SGNs are too jellied and intense to drink in their youth, Mlle. Faller has crafted one with impeccable equilibrium. Projected maturity: now-2030. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 1998 Tokay-Pinot Gris Selection de Grains Nobles has flowers, creamed yellow fruits, almond cookies, and oak-like spices (yet no new or young wood was employed) in its aromatics. Reminiscent of a hugely rich vanilla-infused creme brulee, this full-bodied wine is as sweet as molasses (170 grams of residual sugar per liter) yet has the requisite acidity for outstanding balance. Drink it between 2003 and 2014+. (Not yet released)Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.