The pale yellow colored 2014 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Auslese shows an upfront but not refined bouquet of botrytised Riesling grapes and raisins, with some notes of volatile acidity. Really sweet, nicely concentrated but also with finesse, a certain freshness and a lingering piquancy, this is an old-fashioned Auslese with a nice, aromatic finish and some salinity. Drink over the next 15-20 years.

The 2013 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Auslese starts lovely pure and piquant on the nose indicating pineapple, lemon and caramel flavors. Very lively and salty on the palate this is an enormously stimulating and kicking Auslese to drink now or to store or to do both which is easily possible at this price (the wines sells for 20 Euro incl. tax in Germany) which is a chance for us but a tragedy for the producer who obviously can't obtain a price that's worth the quality. This is a gastronomic Auslese with a piquant acidity and a lovely Fruchtspiel, a wine for conversation, aperitif or to match with creme brulee , but also seafood (crabs, lobster), raved salmon, stilton and roquefort.

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. Dr. Werner Michel and his daughter Catharina Mauritz obtained mixed results in 2011. He describes conditions in late summer as “almost tropical,” though the estate held off picking until late September and then worked rapidly. It was necessary, Michel testifies, to remove rot ahead of time throughout their vineyards, rendering this for them – as for so many German Riesling growers – among the most expensive harvests ever. And I speculate that perhaps the demure personality of certain wines in the present collection might in part be a function of how thoroughly they were charcoal-fined, a common practice among German Riesling growers in rot-threatened vintages like this (to say nothing of 2006 or 2000), and which many of them have proven is in itself no impediment to impressive quality. Various U.S. importers, including Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5000; Classic Wine Imports, Inc., Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 236 9378; Slocum & Sons, Inc., West Haven, CT; tel. (203) 937-6430

The gold-capsuled and golden colored 2010 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Auslese (AP 01 11) opens with a clear, intense and elegant, beautifully fruity bouquet with honeyed stone fruit aromas intertwined with coolish flinty and minty notes. Round and lush, this is a highly elegant Auslese classic with fine acidity (9.2 grams per liter) and mineral grip on the finish. This is perfectly round, fresh and fruity and highly stimulating. Peach and nectarine aromas on the salty aftertaste. A gorgeous wine. 8.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in September 2021.