The 2004 Pagos 3 ramps it up considerably. Big, rich, and mouth-filling, this 100% Mencia delivers a bouquet of cigar box, mineral, violets, incense, black cherry, and black raspberry. On the palate it has tons of flavor with all components well integrated. It will continue to unfold over the next 4-6 years and have a drinking window extending from 2014 to 2024. Importer: Classical Wines of Spain, Seattle, WA; www.classicalwines.com

The 2003 Pagos Tres is a single vineyard selection from 100+-year-old vines, some of them ungrafted. This wine also receives malolactic fermentation in barrel followed by 15 months aging in new oak. Opaque purple-colored, it offers a splendid perfume of mineral, spice box, earth, blueberry, and black currant jam. The structured palate reveals excellent concentration, ripe flavors, excellent delineation, and a pure finish. Give this wine 4-6 years of cellaring and drink it over the following decade. Importer: Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 297-6713; Opici Wines , www.opiciwines.com