From sites north of the village including Saussilles (bordering Clos des Mouches) Laurent's 2006 Pommard 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes represents a considerably larger assemblage than did the corresponding 2005. Bright and invigorating in its dominance of fresh red fruits and their distilled proxies, along with marine salinity – yet palpably dense and underlain by rich meatiness – this generates a finish that feels as though you are straining mineral matter through your teeth. Yet, the quality of the tannins – although they're more abundant – is almost as refined as in the village bottling. I expect this to demonstrate 10-12 year potential, and it would probably be best to give it 2-3 years of quiet. Dominique Laurent – whose methodology I attempted to clarify in a bit more detail in my report for issue 171 – purchased fewer wines in 2006 (not all of which I tasted) than he had in 2005, particularly at the lower end of the classificatory spectrum and in the Cote de Beaune. On the other hand, there were some correspondingly sweet opportunities, he noted, to expand acquisitions in top-notch crus due to initial hesitation of many negociants to buy heavily into this vintage. Laurent was highly enthusiastic about the quality of the wines he did raise, which in the glass often proved even more infectious than his enthusiasm – and that's saying something! What's more, although these wines – generally produced in 50-250 case quantities – have a reputation for high prices, most of these 2006s – especially in their upper-echelons – strike me as exhibiting excellent price:quality rapport. While absence of chaptalization and absence of sulfur during the elevage remain constant features this year, less of the wine Laurent purchased and raised from 2006 was vinified with stems than in most years. Vieilles Vignes," incidentally, is used like a brand name chez Laurent, referring to all of his better wines, whereas his "Tradition" line – none of which I tasted – consists of cuvees rendered in slightly larger volumes and exclusively for the French market. Since the words "Vieilles Vignes" are prominently displayed on the label, I have included them as part of each wine's description, although one will often see Laurent's same top wines referred to without that designation. Imported by Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327-0808

Representing four barrels worth of Refene (from the north edge of town; “similar to Epenots but less well-exposed,” says Laurent) and three from Saussilles (a stony, chalky site bordering Clos des Mouches) the 2005 Pommard 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes offers another meaty, saltily mineral expression of Pinot, combined with bitter black fruits and chocolate, and laced with pungent suggestions of raw ginger and horseradish. This lean, bright and penetratingly long wine is less obviously dense than its village counterpart but more interesting not to say striking. A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23; Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327 0808