Dominique Piron Domaine de la Chanaise Beaujolais Blanc, Beaujolais, France

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From a chalk-clay sector around Corcelles, the Piron 2010 Beaujolais Blanc Domaine de la Chanaise evinces iris and narcissus; lemon and apples; chalk dust and sea spray; as well as a piquantly cyanic intimation of apple pip on the nose. The tart fruit; floral perfume; chalky, salty minerality; and prominent piquancy are all reprised on a silken-textured yet refreshing palate. This might become predominantly bitter in its finish within a couple of years, but should offer lots of pleasure in the interim. I was surprised to learn given the character of this vintage that Kristine blocked half of the eventual cuvee from going through malo; but obviously she knew what she was doing! (The 2009 shows well – in its quite different way described in issue 190 – when tasted alongside.) Dominique and Kristine Piron (for more about whose holdings, methods, and diverse domaines consult my reports in issues 184 and 190) began picking their 2010s on September 22 – exactly two weeks later than in 2009 – and did not finish until October 4. Even then, the effects of a late start to the growing season and relatively cool weather seemed particularly evident in a collection that could benefit from a bit more generous fruit and charm, which hopefully some of the wines I tasted were simply at an inopportune stage in June for displaying. The fruit was half or more destemmed to compensate for potential under-ripeness as well as sheer abundance of wood, and extraction was rendered even more gentle than usual. Since this estate generally releases its wines relatively late, 2011 is really the calendar year for investing in their outstanding 2009s, about which I wrote in issue 190. (That said, Kristine Piron laughingly relates the incredulity of some potential customers – not including their U.S. importers – in the face of the estate’s typical release policy, and her occasional reluctant acquiescence to their insistent appeals to be sold wines of the latest vintage.)Importers include Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Potomac Selections, Inc., Landover MD; tel. (301) 583- 8844