Bert Selbach picked his entire crop in just two weeks beginning the tenth of October, preserving healthy acidity throughout his range, even when it is sometimes covered by overt sweetness in the youthful wines. The 2005 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese displays black currant, honeysuckle, and lemon meringue in the nose, comes onto the palate bright and juicy, and finishes with a fine balance of snappy, crisp, clear and faintly bitter black fruit and citrus with honeyed richness, botrytis-induced spice and invigorating salt and wet stone minerality. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($15.00; 85), 2005 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett feinherb (unknown; 86).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

An outstanding effort, the smoked mineral-scented 2003 Riesling Auslese Graacher Himmelreich is broad, expansive, and medium-bodied. Its satin-textured core of white fruit reveals impressive ripeness, harmony, and length. This forward yet well-balanced wine should be at its best between 2005 and 2018. Importers: Rudi Wiest Selections by Cellars International, Inc., Carlsbad, CA; tel. (760) 566-0499 and Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500