Produced using 50% whole cluster and including 8% Viognier, the 2014 Syrah Jack Robert's Run has a deep garnet-purple color and nose of fragrant violets and licorice hints over crushed blackberries and black cherries. Medium to full-bodied, rich and concentrated with a gorgeous perfume (and not just from the Viognier), it has a great structure of ripe, rounded tannins and oodles of freshness, finishing epically. Superb Syrah!

The 2013 Syrah Jack Robert’s Run offers floral blueberry and blackberry fruit, a structured, tannic mouthfeel, high-toned red, blue and black fruits, and an earthy finish infused with licorice and meaty notes. This wine will benefit from several years of bottle age and keep for 12-15 years.

The 2012 Syrah Jack Roberts Run (330 cases aged in one-third new French hogsheads for 18 months) boasts an opaque purple color as well as notes of charcuterie, smoked meats, roasted herbs, espresso, blackberries, graphite and Asian soy. This meaty, full-throttle Syrah hits the palate with a thunderous layer of fruit in a full-bodied manner. Enjoy this beauty over the next decade or more.

The 2009 Syrah Jack Robert’s Run Gregori Vineyard is a gorgeous wine layered with blackberries, tar, graphite, incense, camphor and game. In 2009 winemaker Andy Smith waited out the rain and harvested in late October. He was rewarded with a huge, opulent wine that possesses stunning richness and intensity yet is not at all heavy. A mineral-drenched finish adds the last layer of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com