Somewhere between the acidity and dryness, this Pinot has a terrifically interesting core. It’s a subtle wine, now suggesting cherry fruit, now retreating in favor of earthier mushrooms, minerals and pine needles, framed in firm tannins. Strikes out new territory for cool-climate Pinot Noir, less ripe, lower in alcohol and more exciting. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 94