The 1999 Gewurztraminer, from a varietal that rarely produces anything of interest, is surprisingly spot-on in terms of its exotic rose petal/lychee nut aromatics. Rich and full-bodied, with some residual sugar, it will drink beautifully over the next year with Asian dishes or sauteed foie gras. Tel. (707) 895-3232; Fax (707) 985-3316.

California rarely produces successful Gewurztraminer, but Edmeades' 1996 Gewurztraminer is a bone dry, excellent example of this varietal. Unmistakable Gewurztraminer aromas of rose petals and spicy grapefruit are present in the wine's bouquet. In the mouth, it is medium to full-bodied, with some tannin, and a dry, richly fruity finish. This nearly outstanding example should be drunk over the next 1-2 years.This is an unheralded source for surprisingly user-friendly, well-made wines.Only indigenous yeasts are used for fermentation, in addition to a light filtration, resulting in wines with natural textures and intriguing aromatics.Tel. (707) 895-3009