Edmeades’ longtime winemaker is Van Williamson, nicknamed “Vanimal,” and he makes big, bold reds. This may be his highest-alcohol ever. At 17%, it’s dry and velvety, with fresh, fruity flavors of blackberries, cherries and vanilla-chocolate. There’s no denying its deliciousness, but you’ll have to decide if this heady, only-in-California wine suits you.——S.H.(12/15/2007)—— 88