The 2014 Langhe Anas C?tta does not live up to my high expectation and I'll put the blame on the weak vintage. Past editions of this wine have made my list of preferred white wines from Piedmont. But the 2014 expression is heavily weighted down by aromas of natural rubber or beeswax that are distracting. The Cogno estate was among the first to focus on the little-known Nascetta grape in 1994. In fact, they are the first to propose the grape as a monovarietal wine and have enjoyed great success as a result.

The 2012 Langhe Nasceta di Novello Anas-Cetta is a thrilling white wine with a fine and silky texture that acts as a sounding board for bright citrus, white flower and bitter almond aromas. The Nascetta grape shows beautiful mineral nuances and striking density for a white wine. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. A visit to the cellars of Elvio Cogno is always a fascinating learning experience. I had my first taste of a beautifully fresh and fragrant white wine made with the Nascetta grape here a few years ago. The variety was new to many of us then, but thanks to vintner Valter Fissore and his wife Nadia Cogno it is strongly identified with the territory today. More recently, the couple started to produce limited cases of Barbera d’Alba made from pre-phylloxera vines (most more than a century old). That they were able to tap into that ancient genetic patrimony in this well-trodden part of Italy is something of a small miracle. They are also credited with putting the little-known Novello township on the Barolo map. Importer: Imported by Elvio Cogno, Suasalito, CA; tel. (917) 699-2647

The 2011 Anas-Cetta is striking in this vintage. Juicy yellow peaches, flowers, crushed rocks and mint meld together in this totally gracious white. Gorgeous, pure and vibrant, the 2011 impresses for its overall balance and sense of harmony. I will not be surprised if it is even better in another year or two. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2010 Anas-Cetta comes across as a touch compact at this stage and in need of further time in bottle. It flows with attractive peaches, pears and flowers, with lovely minerality and fine overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Walter Fissore and Nadia Cogno continue to do fabulous work. Cogno is one of the very finest estates in Piedmont, yet somehow remains under the radar. Every wine I tasted this year was brilliant, but the Baroli in particular are magnificent. The wines are made in a fairly traditional style, which means they need bottle age, even at the entry-level. Native yeasts, lengthy submerged-cap macerations, and a reliance on large, neutral oak casks for the top Baroli are the rule. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2009 Anas-Cetta is a gorgeous wine laced with expressive succulent peaches and apricots intermingled with exotic, floral aromatics that recall Malvasia or Gewurztraminer. Subtle notes of sweetness suggest the Anas-Cetta will pair beautifully with a wide range of foods, particularly those with an element of spiciness. Hints of ginger, passion fruit and spices linger on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Cogno is one of Piedmont’s undiscovered jewels. From top to bottom, the wines are consistently excellent to outstanding. In recent years, the estate has made great strides with their Baroli, but readers should not look past the entry-level wines, as they merit just as much attention. Readers will have to wait until 2011 for the 2006 Barolo Bricco Pernice and 2005 Barolo Vigna Elena. In the meantime, there is no shortage of fine bottles from this small, artisan grower. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200