Every bit as good as I thought it was from barrel, the monumental 2018 Saint Joseph La Dardouille is one of the best Saint Josephs to have ever crossed this taster's lips—certainly in the Top 10. Hints of cedar accent deep notes of blackberry liqueur, underlain by a bed of crushed granite. Full-bodied, richly concentrated and textured, it's a prodigious effort that must be tasted to be believed. Despite the size and extract, there's a sense of cool restraint and even a bit of refreshment on the lengthy finish. Give it another year or two; it should drink well for at least a decade beyond that.

Coming in almost a full degree lower in alcohol than the 2018 at 14.3%, Darnaud's 2017 Saint Joseph La Dardouille may seem more to some people's taste. It's an excellent wine, with scents of crushed stone accenting blueberries and cassis on the nose. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ripe and velvety, with a long finish that offers hints of baking spices and additional waves of fruit. It should drink well for a decade.

Rich, creamy textured and dense, the 2015 Saint Joseph La Dardouille somehow manages to avoid coming across as at all heavy. Yes, it's full-bodied and loaded with plum and blueberry fruit, but enlivening pepper and licorice notes emerge on the lengthy finish. This should drink well for a decade or more.