The 2017 Winemakers Reserve Chardonnay comes from the Bayview Vineyard, a unique, dry-farmed site planted on marine soils that were under water until an earthquake in 1931 raised this portion of the seabed. Gentle struck match notes frame white peaches, pears and citrus in this medium to full-bodied wine. It's plump yet elegant, with a silky texture and a lingering finish. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years for its lush fruit.

On opening, the 2016 Winemakers Reserve Chardonnay shows some complex, sulfide-derived notes of struck match. Those add nuance to roasted nut aromas, both of which complement the wine's citrusy fruit. It's medium-bodied, showing restrained fruitiness and savory hints of mocha and barrel char that linger on the finish. I'd recommend giving this another year to further integrate; drink it over the next 5 years or so.

The 2014 Esk Valley Hawke's Bay Chardonnay has a nose intensely scented of ripe peaches, pink grapefruit and grave with struck flint, brioche and marzipan nuances. Medium-bodied with a delicious stone fruit and honey-nut laced palate and silken texture, it finishes with great length and plenty of layers.