Esk Valley's 2017 The Hillside Malbec / Cabernet Franc / Merlot is essentially The Terraces, declassified because the vintage wasn't considered strong enough. It's marked by its 18 months in 50% new oak on the nose, where cedar and spice notes mingle with black cherries and hints of tobacco. In the mouth, it's medium-bodied, supple and smooth, drinkable already, with a silky-textured finish. No, it won't age for decades, but maybe for one, and be darn good along the way.