This wine is not concentrated or intense. However, it is a refreshing, light, elegant effort. It is melon and citrus dominated. This wine is light-bodied, dry, and best consumed over the next year as an aperitif or with light seafood or pasta dishes.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

This wine is made from the grape of the same name. It is also tank-fermented, but the wine is then moved to French Allier oak barrels for aging. The lovely nose offers up aromas of honeyed citrus, lemon, and melony fruit with subtle smoky notes in the background. The wine is a beauty on the palate, with excellent concentration, ripe fruit, refreshing acidity, and a subtle oaky component. It should drink well for 1-2 years. This is a dazzling wine value from one of Italy's genius winemakers/oenologists, Riccardo Cotarella.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The beautifully made 1995 Grechetto possesses a good mid-section, as well as an attractive soft, lush texture. There is a subtle oaky note, but the primary characteristic is ripe fruit presented in an uncomplicated, medium-bodied format.This wine is from an estate owned by one of Italy's most renowned oenologists/winemakers, Riccardo Cotarella. One of the young geniuses that has revolutionized winemaking in Italy, Riccardo Cotarella is the spiritual equivalent of Michel Rolland in France. His brother, Renzo, is the chief winemaker for Piero Antinori. Cotarella's position with respect to white wines is to preserve their fruit, recognizing they should be fermented at low temperatures and bottled as early as possible.Kudos to Riccardo Cotarella for this extraordinary showing of just what brilliant quality can be achieved from the vineyards of Umbria. As I mentioned, Cotarella is the Michel Rolland of Italy. As with Rolland, whom readers of The Wine Advocate discovered long before he became known to the international wine press, I predict Cotarella will be gracing the cover of leading wine magazines over the next few years.Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869