The estate's 2009 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Casale Vecchio is a much darker and more concentrated wine than the straight Montepulciano, but it is not more complex nor does it provide greater pleasure. Farnese has proved they can make opulent wines, but elegance has proved to be more elusive. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Farnese makes a wide range of wines but I nearly always gravitate towards the low end, where there is less of an effort to build the wines in the cellar. It is clear the estate is working with high quality fruit. It would be nice to see a more restrained approach in the cellar.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2008 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Casale Vecchio is less interesting. Heavy oak, jammy blueberries and blackberries dominate the balance in a Montepulciano that ultimately delivers little varietal character. Anticipated maturity:2010-2012. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Farnese’s French oak-aged 2007 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Casale Vecchio is a jammy, opulent wine loaded with the essence of blackberries, blueberries, spices, smoke and licorice. While the wine offers impressive concentration and depth, it isn’t noticeably better than the regular bottling, which I would say shows more varietal character. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. These new releases from Farnese offer exceptional quality for the money. The wines are clean, correct and delicious, as long as the estate doesn’t stray too far from its core strength of making simple, well-made wines. Farnese offers two ranges in the value category, the first of these is a line of simple, varietal wines, while the Casale Vecchio series consists of special selections.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Here’s a black, rugged, almost impenetrable wine with thick concentration, a purple-blue color and well-integrated notes of black fruit and Asian spice. There are slight creamy tones of berry smoothie or milk chocolate, and the oak influences are evident.——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 89