If you like your wine clean and fruity, steer clear of this individualistic effort, which leads off with barnyard and dirty Band-Aid aromas and folds in tar and hummus notes. There are drying tannins that are and crisp acids, plus solid black cherry and plum flavors to hold everything together, so the overall result is a complex, interesting wine that would pair well with full-flavored meat dishes.——C.S.(5/1/2002)—— 85