Fazi Battaglia is obviously best known as a producer of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, but the Montepulciano-based red wine which the house produces on the Adriatic coast near Ancona has become a formidable wine indeed. The 2001 Rosso Conero Passo del Lupo, a deep ruby in color, is very spicy, jammy, and rich in aroma, dense and concentrated on the palate, long and firm on the finish. Muscular and built to last, it will continue to drink well for another dozen years. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2000 Rosso Conero Riserva Passo del Lupo is long and forceful in personality, with light oak and mineral notes to accompany the cherry and red currant fruit, but the texture is a bit austere, the tannins too noticeable in the finish. A wine built to last, but the better Montepulciano-based wines on the market are made with riper fruit, something which is felt in their greater sweetness and softness. Importer: Wine Wave, Jericho, NY; tel. (516) 433-1121