The 2013 Bolgheri Rosso by Ferrari Iris & Figli in the Cecina township tastes and feels very different from the other wines of this appellation. There is a sweet note here of pressed cherry and baking spice that takes center stage. In fact, it is a little too much for my taste. There is also a very prominent note of red rose that adds pretty floral intensity to the bouquet. Cola and balsam herb appear on the finish. The blend used here is 45% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot; the wine sees five months of oak aging.

The 2012 Bolgheri Rosso is a Bordeaux blend that oozes richness and opulence in the form of cherry syrup, crème de cassis, dark kirsch and chocolate fudge. The wine’s voluptuousness is its defining characteristic. It’s not that it tastes overripe, but it does boast huge extraction and concentration that will either appeal to readers, or won’t. I remember feeling that the 2011 edition of the same wine was overdone. This expression feels slightly more tempered and restrained and that works in its favor.

The 2011 Bolgheri Rosso (45% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot) shows huge notes of tobacco and spice with Nutella and chocolate-covered cherry. It-s overdone and over-the-top. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2017. Founded in 1976 by Penso Camerini, Ferrari Iris & Figli is a 36-hecatre property specialized in Montescudaio, Bolgheri and Terratico di Bibbona DOC wines. Importer: Old Bridge; www.oldbridgewines.com