Tasted as a tank sample, the 2020 Crozes Hermitage Les Calendes delivers more red-toned fruit and suppler tannins than the dark, muscular 2019 version. Red raspberries and cherries appear on the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate finishes crisp, tangy and taut.

A bit more serious and tannic than the La Matinière bottling, the 2019 Crozes Hermitage Les Calendes blends aromas of crushed stone, cassis and black cherries on the nose. It's full-bodied, rich and tannic, with a long, velvety finish that bodes well for mid-term cellaring. Drink it over the rest of this decade.

The 2018 Crozes Hermitage Les Calendes, from Ferraton's own vineyards, boasts a remarkable nose of stewed blackberries and tapenade, all laced with salted licorice, violets and black tea. Full-bodied and supple, it adds hints of mocha and asphalt, yet retains an intriguing sense of freshness, then ends long and silky. The tannins have evolved quickly over the past year, and there's no need to defer gratification.

Cinnamon and mocha notes accent dark fruit and cola in the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Les Calendes, which comes from Ferraton's own vineyards. Medium to full-bodied, it's savory and earthy in style, finishing dry and dusty.

The savory, black olive-dominated 2016 Crozes Hermitage Les Calendes is supple and easy to drink already. Medium to full-bodied, it's a satisfying if not compelling sip of Syrah from the company's own vineyards. It should drink well through 2025.