Pear and white peach. Crisp and fresh with green herbal fruit. Very drinkable summery fare.

The 1998 Albente is a tank-fermented and aged, fresh, medium-bodied white with notes of apple blossoms and almonds. Fruit-driven and clean, it is ideal for consuming over the next year. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 1996 Albente has been vinified in stainless steel, and bottled early to preserve its crisp, floral, straightforward, but refreshing, apple-like fruit. This is a dry, delicious, zesty, light-bodied white wine to serve with pasta and fish dishes. The white wines from this estate in the Campania region have received unofficial consulting advice from Zind-Humbrecht. Whether it is because of that, or just due to the increased attention to detail, the whites have improved over recent years. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 1993 Albente is a plum and cherry-scented, spicy, dry red wine with medium body, fine freshness, and a mouthfilling, chewy texture. Although not complex, it is a well-made, satisfying red wine for drinking over the next 3-4 years.