I had previously tasted this same vintage. The Feudi di San Gregorio 2015 Sirica is an expression of a mystery grape linked to Syrah, Refosco and Teroldego. The wine has definitely evolved (and even faded) since I last visited it, but it maintains its distinctive and slightly raw or wild personality. There is ripe fruit and baked plum with spice, campfire ash and sweet barbecue smoke. It also offers some meaty tones of smoked bacon and white pepper that are reminiscent of Syrah.

The 2013 Siricia is the result of a slightly cooler vintage compared to 2012. You can feel the difference thanks to fruit aromas that are bright, intact and fresh. Sirica is a mysterious grape with Syrah-like definition that was discovered in an ancient vineyard. In fact, just three vines (aged more than 100 years old) were discovered. Feudi's vineyard experts cloned them to create a three-hectare vineyard. The bouquet delivers smoked ham, crushed white pepper, blackberry, cola and balsam herb. This edition of the wine shows rich lushness and an opulent mouthfeel that is reinforced by soft tannins and seamless texture.

The 2012 Sirica is a very unique wine. Although "Sirica" is a fantasty name, Feudi di San Gregorio has registered a grape named Sirica that is a near relative of Syrah, Teroldego and/or Refosco. To my palate, the Syrah element is strongest. The wine opens to dark tones of smoked pancetta, dark fruit, cola, licorice and spice. It shows a rustic personality and is a little rough on the edges with dry astringency and lean consistency. Fruit is harvested at the end of October and beginning of November.

The 2008 Sirica is a huge, promising wine that is much improved over last year's version. It possesses marvelous integrity in its fruit, vibrant minerality and outstanding length. Ash and game linger on the complex, firm finish. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Feudi di San Gregorio is one of the leaders in the modern-day Renaissance of Campanian oenology. Readers who want to learn more about the estate's history may want to reference my article 'The Noble Wines of Southern Italy' in Issue 190, which also includes verticals of the estate's flagships Serpico and Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the new release of the Riserva this year. For ease of reference I have included my note on Feudi's Aglianico del Vulture here, although the wine is, of course, from Basilicata. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2007 Sirica is the only red in this line-up that is disappointing. Sirica is an ancient, rediscovered variety with a lineage that is believed to date back several thousand years. Feudi discovered old, pre-phylloxera vines in their vineyards and performed a selezione massale to plant those clones more widely. To be honest, I have no frame of reference for what Sirica should taste like, but it is pretty obvious that any varietal character that may have been present in this wine has been totally obliterated by a heavy use of oak. For now, the Sirica is a work in progress. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Feudi di San Gregorio is coming back from a period in which it was essentially a victim of its own success. The winery’s early and numerous accolades plus fast, unbridled growth proved to be too much to handle. Today, under the leadership of proprietor Antonio Capaldo, Feudi seems to be much more grounded than in the past. Capaldo boasts an impressive resume, replete with world-class academic credentials and stints with Lazard in Paris and McKinsey in Italy. Despite his background, Capaldo remains humble, eager to learn and well aware of the family winery’s missteps in the past, all qualities which should serve him very well going forward. Noted agronomist Pierpaolo Sirch oversees the work in the vineyards and cellar now that Feudi is moving away from relying on consultants in favor of doing more in-house. The flashy, oak-laden style of previous vintages is gradually being phased out as Feudi relies more on the considerable pedigree of its vineyards. This will be a fascinating story to follow in the coming years. For now Feudi is still a work in progress, and in many cases, the entry-level wines provide more pleasure and varietal character than the higher-end bottlings. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642