The 2005 Primitivo di Manduria Sessantanni is a big, over-the-top offering loaded with super-ripe dark fruit and plenty of French oak. The wine shows good persistence, but finishes with discernible sweetness on the close. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Importer: Vin Divino, Ltd., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Feudi di San Marzano’s 2004 Primitivo di Manduria Sessantani (Old Vines) is a concentrated, opulent wine loaded with soft-textured, over-ripe dark fruit and sweet toasted oak. There is nothing subtle about this wine, but it does offer fun drinking in an opulent, full-throttle style. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014.Importer: Vin Divino, Ltd., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700