Marked by a cedary oak edge to the floral and green apple notes. Full-bodied, tight and in need of aeration. Drink now through 2017. 311 cases made. -JL

The 2008 Chardonnay T Anchor Ranch comes across as slightly richer than the JA Ranch. A melange of white truffles, nectarines, mint and flowers come together in this textured yet impeccably focused Chardonnay. Refreshing mineral notes frame the vibrant finish. The T Anchor Ranch spent 20 months in French oak (75% new) and was vinified with partial malolactic fermentation. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Bill Foley. The wines show the restraint and finesse of the cool, long growing season.Tel. (805) 737-6222; www.foleywines.com

A brilliant Chardonnay showing how well this region can ripen fruit while retaining brisk acidity. Oak barrels add an exotic touch of clove to the underlying pineapple fruit flavors. Feels rich and creamy, and aging on the lees provides a complex touch of sourdough. Drink now. ——S.H.(3/1/2011)—— 93