With a mere 3,000 bottles made, the organic Fontodi 2018 Syrah Case Via is ripe, concentrated and extremely savory in terms of its aromas. This vintage reveals loads of bacon fat and musky leather that you often get with Syrah in the warmest growing seasons. Chewing tobacco, riding boots, potting soil and dark fruit all rise heavily from the bouquet. The wine ages in French barrique for 20 months. There are two sides to the mouthfeel: Although it is moderate in length, the wine shows lots of soft texture on the mid-palate and closes quickly with a 15% alcohol content.

This is a fascinating expression of Syrah that does not fit into our preconceived expectations of the grape, whether from the Old World or the New. The Fontodi 2017 Syrah Case Via opens to a rich, inky dark appearance. I got a sweet note of butterscotch or caramel at the start, but that subsided quickly to make room for black fruit, toasted wood, campfire ash and ripe plum. The wine is not exactly varietally pure, especially if you identify with the toasty Shiraz camp of Australia or the meaty, white peppercorn camp of the Rh?ne. Instead, this wine has a vaguely carbonic level of energy, zest and ripe primary fruit. The fruit is dark, bold, rich and Tuscan, with a direct and sunny personality.

I love the richness, coupled by the finesse of the 2016 Syrah Case Via. This beautiful expression hits that elusive intersection of elegance and power with bullseye precision. This is an impressive effort that brings forth beautifully balanced aromas of dark fruit, blackberry, spice, leather and earthy terracotta. I'd love to come back and try this Tuscan Syrah ten years from now.

Syrah is the first red variety to be harvested each year at Fontodi. The 2015 Syrah Case Via opens to an inky dark appearance with purplish and blackish hues. This is a gutsy and savory wine that offers a swift kick of aromatic intensity. Dried blackberry, plum, spice, leather and bitter chocolate peel back in thick layers. Yet, despite the heat of the vintage, you might mistake this wine as being from a cooler growing season. The fruit is tight and focused. The finish offers bright acidity that is not common to Syrah from other parts of the wine world. Those cool Panzano nighttime temperatures and higher altitudes have left their mark here. Give this wine an extra year of bottle aging to allow it to flesh out further. Only 5,500 bottles were produced.

Like the Fontodi Pinot Nero, this wine shows enormous creativity and courage. The 2013 Syrah Case Via opens to a dark and impenetrable appearance with blackberry, bitter chocolate, cured meat, Indian spice and crushed black pepper. This wine is absolutely unique within its context. The tannins are plush and succulent. With so many excellent game dishes in Tuscany like wild boar and rabbit, I cannot imagine a better pairing partner. Only 6,000 bottles are made.