Yikes. A brilliant wine. The 2021 Smith Cullam Riesling is feather-light and layered with all of the characters that we have come to expect from Rieslings from this estate: black tea, green apple skins, preserved lemon and nashi pear... There are white flowers and a scraping of nutmeg, mandarin pith and even a waft of lavender. It is floral, spicy and restrained; the acidity and residual sugar play off against each other in the mouth for dominance. The linger and unfurl of flavor as the wine fades is elegant in the supreme. A beautiful wine. One of the best off-dry Rieslings in Australia.

The 2013 Smith Cullam Riesling reveals a gorgeous perfume of frangipani, exotic spices and lime blossoms amid suggestions of mandarin peel and chopped herbs. Light-bodied and off-dry, it packs the citrus and spice flavors into an elegant package before finishing with great persistence. Drink it now to 2023+. Imported by Quintessential Wines, Napa, CA; www.quintessentialwines.com

The 2012 Smith Cullam Riesling opens with aromas of ripe grapefruit, lime leaves and lemongrass with suggestions of crushed stones and straw. Light-bodied with a touch of sweetness, it puts forward a lot of depth and harmony even at this youthful stage with a long clean finish. Drink it now to 2020+. Imported by Quintessential Wines, Napa, CA; www.quintessentialwines.com

The 2011 Riesling is a more earthy, savory style of Riesling giving herbal and crushed stone notes over hints of apple, fresh pears and bread. Light-bodied and crisp in the mouth, it has a great core of apple and pear flavors with a detectable touch of residual sugar (19 grams per liter) and a very long finish. Approachable now, it should cellar to 2020+. Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection; www.tapwc.com

Produced from fruit off a certified organic single vineyard planted in 1988, the 2010 SmithCullam Riesling was fermented in 1000 liter French oak foudre and stainless steel tank over 4 weeks. It is profoundly scented of fresh grapefruit, lemon peel, lime zest and under-ripe pineapple with nuances of wet pebbles and apple blossom. Light bodied and very crisp in the mouth, it is a medium-sweet style possessing 19.8 grams per liter of residual sugar. Balanced and concentrated, it gives a long mineral and citric finish. Delicious now, it should evolve beautifully with a couple more years in bottle, drinking best 2013 to 2022+. Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection; www.tapwc.com