The Hirtzbergers’ 2010 Neuburger Smaragd is broad but juicy, with white asparagus, raw hazelnut, and an infusion of herbs joined by hints of apple pip in a finish of satisfying length. It lacks, though, the textural allure that one counts on from the best examples of this nowadays largely neglected variety, not to mention the best past instances chez Hirtzberger. I would plan on enjoying it over the next 2-3 years, notwithstanding Neuburger’s proclivity in the best cases to age impressively. Given the penchant at this address for late harvest; considerable skin contact; and must aeration, I was not surprised to learn from Franz Hirtzberger Junior that only their Riesling Federspiel had been at all de-acidified. “If there’d been even a bit more hanging out there though,” he notes “then we wouldn’t have made it” – i.e. acheived ripe grapes. “We learned our lesson from 1996,” as Hirtzberger Senior saw it, namely not to harvest – despite ongoing crop loss and fear of ignoble rot (though in this case that didn’t materialize) – until the acids finally began to diminish and the skins to properly ripen. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The Hirtzberger 2007 Neuburger Selection – harvested at the beginning of November – makes yet another delicious case for this sadly-neglected variety. In fact, I have never tasted better. Subtly nutty, saline, with whiffs of violet and generous ripe apple and pear, this has a liveliness to accompany its creamy richness, a combination of richness and clarity, as well as a toasty almond and hazelnut finish that all remind me of Pinot Blanc. The analysis reveals acidity here not too far below that of a Riesling, which is highly unusual for Neuburger, and donates an uncanny buoyancy. This will serve with striking versatility at table for the next 5-6 years at least, and probably much longer. If only thousands – as opposed to at most a few hundred – wine lovers could taste and discover this (preferably with a meal or two)!Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The Hirtzberger 2006 Neuburger Selection is the result of grapes that ripened so quickly it reached 15% alcohol even while leaving behind 12 grams of residual sugar. Voluminous and creamy, with suggestions of cider, Calvados, almond paste, candied grapefruit rind, and honey, this is the richest, most exotic wine I can ever recall from its grape variety. A bit of heat creeps into the finish, but one can forgive that for the overall pleasure delivered. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

In fidelity to a Wachau tradition that is being rapidly abandoned, Hirtzberger continues to bottle a small amount of Neuburger. His 2005 Neuburger Smaragd, harvested November 7, while aromatically fairly neutral as is typical of this grape, offers enveloping creaminess and subtle nuttiness on the palate along with inner-mouth hints of violets and litchi. I found I could return to this again and again with satisfaction, and it is undeniable that a bottle of truly well-made Neuburger will be first to disappear from a table laden with diverse victuals. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700