One of the few truly organic, i.e., sulfite-free, wineries in California, Frey’s Merlot is racy enough, with well-etched blueberry and herb flavors, although it has enough tannins to make your tongue stick to your palate. Tastes better than it smells. Smells a little vegetal. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 84