Even tasted blind, this wine has a distinctive minerality akin to that of Chablis or Pouilly-Fume. Of course, the grape variety is different, and the aromas and flavors of lime and orange rind reflect it, but this is first a wine of its soil, which Becker has captured in its name. Plump, yet structured, and long on the finish.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 90