A 4,000-bottle release, the Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2021 Langhe Freisa is another fascinating wine, and today only 10 producers make a mono-varietal expression of this grape in the Langhe. Freisa is considered the "country cousin" of Nebbiolo, and indeed the two grapes share similar DNA. Freisa always requires a bit of extra bottle time before it is fully expressive, and with patience, it comes alive with dark fruit, spice and pepper. Big fruit weight gives the wine broad shoulders. The tannins are a bit rustic, but this wine is enjoyable, especially in an informal setting.

The Freisa grape is regaining much of its past glory and deservedly so. This grape is said to be a distant cousin of Nebbiolo, and you might guess as much given the structure and depth that it offers. Fabio Alessandria endearingly calls Freisa the "country cousin of Nebbiolo." His family's 2016 Langhe Freisa is a terrific wine. It offers an accessible personality and loads of individual character with elements that are both rustic and raw. If you are a fan of Italy's indigenous grapes—as I am—you will find this wine irresistible. It delivers an important tannic structure with blue fruit, natural spice and dried apricot.