A very nice Cab that’s Bordeaux-like in its dryness, modest alcohol and tannic earthiness that grounds the blackberry and cherry fruit. Shows a welcome return to form after the disappointing ’06, and should develop for a couple of years.——S.H.(11/1/2009)—— 90

This bottling has been losing traction over the years, and the ’06 is a disappointment. It’s soft and sweet in cherry jam, with a syrupy mouthfeel.——S.H.(4/1/2009)—— 84

This is a big, soft, extracted and dense Cabernet that’s not showing well now because it’s so top-heavy with fruit and oak. But it has an underlying dry elegance, and the blackberry liqueur and espresso flavors are big enough for midterm aging. Best 2007 through 2009. ——S.H.(7/1/2006)—— 88

It took a while for this wine to open up, because it’s closed and brooding at first. Opens with a cigarette ash aroma you sometimes find in terroir-driven wines. Tannic; airing reveals lush cherry and cassis flavors and a rich overlay of fine smoky oak. Seems a natural for the cellar, and could age to greatness by 2010.——S.H.(10/1/2004)—— 90