I’ve liked Galante’s Blackjack Cab for its balanced ageworthiness, one of the few south-of-San Francisco Cabs you can say that about. This vintage, the wine is big in fruit but tight in tannins and acids. Although decanting will soften it and a good steak will improve it, it’s best left alone for at least a year, and should hold for the rest of this decade. ——S.H.(7/1/2006)—— 91