The Duboeuf 2010 Chiroubles Domaine Desmures – said to reflect an especially high percentage of old vines – features tart red raspberry and red currant, a sage-like herbal pungency seemingly pointing to some reduction, but a sense of herbal, black tea, and rose hip infusion ultimately adding interest to a soothingly silken, yet bright, as well as satisfyingly persistent finish. George Duboeuf and his estate-collaborators – for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report – harvested from mid-September into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 12-12.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvee, adorned with his company’s signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late-released, wooded “prestige” bottlings – rendered in 1,000-2,500 volumes – which however were not destined to appear in U.S. markets.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

A tightly wound wine, the 2005 Chiroubles Domaine Desmures reveals levels of concentration, intensity, and depth that project a glorious future if its core fleshes out. Within its vivacious, structured core, this effort displays considerable quantities of dark fruits. Drink it between 2008 and 2012. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463.

This wine was not as delicious as several previous vintages. However, it is not to be overlooked. The Desmures exhibits plenty of cranberry fruit, light to medium body, and crisp acidity. Georges Duboeuf's wines are represented on the East Coast by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., Armonk, NY; tel. (914) 273-1221, fax (914) 273-1291, and on the West Coast by Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL,; tel (708) 679-0121, fax (708) 679-2017.

This wine needs at least 6 months of bottle age given its relatively tannic, tougher-textured, unevolved, more backward, leaner style. I have had this wine in other vintages and it always appears to be less forthcoming than other offerings from Chiroubles. Although it reveals good color and obvious ripeness, the wine is backward and relatively restrained for current drinking.Importers: William Deutsch & Sons, Chappaqua, NY and Wine Sellers, Skokie, IL.