Duboeuf’s 2009 Julienas Prestige represents another attempt on his part to offer a late-bottled “quintessence” of its appellation from low yielding vines. Certainly this is admirably concentrated, with high-toned dark berries, game, and smoky black tea collaborating on a penetrating nose and gripping if prominently astringent palate. I would, however, carefully monitor any bottles I was at all inclined to hold. George Duboeuf and his estate-collaborators – for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report – harvested from mid-September into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 12-12.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvee, adorned with his company’s signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late-released, wooded “prestige” bottlings – rendered in 1,000-2,500 volumes – which however were not destined to appear in U.S. markets.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

The medium-bodied 2003 Julienas Cuvee Prestige, aged in new oak barrels, boasts an oak-free nose of black cherries, violets, and roses. Offering awesome depth of fruit, immense concentration and extract, as well as a shockingly long finish, this is a Beaujolais of extraordinary potential. Copious quantities of perfectly ripe, sweet, lush black fruits, spices, and hints of licorice can be detected in its complex character. This bold, big wine will require 1-2 years of cellaring to become more civilized. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2012. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121

Produced from yields one hopes to find more often in the Cote de Units (37 hectoliters per hectare), the molasses, candied blackberry, and plum-scented 2002 Julienas Cuvee Prestige is a Beaujolais of shocking intensity as well as concentration. A serious, muscular, medium to full-bodied wine, it offers chewy-textured layers of dark fruits in its well-structured, boisterous character. In addition, this superb Julienas boasts an exceptionally long finish. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121