Aromas reminiscent of yogurt can be detected in the nose of the 2003 Saint-Veran Domaine Val Lamartinien. Loaded with CO2 (a natural by-product of its malolactic fermentation), it retains fresh floral attributes in its candied apple flavors. This light to medium-bodied wine should be drunk over the next 12-18 months.

The mineral-scented 2002 Saint-Veran Val Lamartien lacks the Flower Label’s breadth and elegance yet offers appealing smoked mineral flavors in its light to medium-bodied character. It should be drunk over the next 18 months. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121

The 2001 St.-Veran Domaine du Val Lamartinien reveals fresh pear and floral aromas as well as flavors. This light-bodied, refreshing, and tangy effort's citrus-tinged, easygoing character is well focused. Drink it over the next 2 years. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121