A new line of wine, that use Georges DuBoeuf's initials as a name, is being inaugurated with the 2003 vintage. Duboeuf's idea is that he'll craft a red and a white from each vintage's finest performing varietals, in a fruit-forward style. A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, the 2003 GD White Vin de Pays d'Oc bursts with smoky white fruit and apple aromas. A pleasing light to medium-bodied wine, it reveals silky waves of gleefully-flavored pears, apples, candied lemons and gooseberries. It should be drunk over the next 12 months. Having recently been upgraded to business class on a transatlantic flight where I'd been served tired, drying out whites from Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses, I wrote in my tasting notes, "Wouldn't joyful wines like these be more appropriate to serve on airlines?"Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY tel: (914) 251-9463 and Wineselles, Ltd., Skokie, IL tel: (847) 679-0121.