Duboeuf’s 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Domaine des Michelons (tasted from tank) – is so effusively ripely fruited I’m almost tempted to call it “grapey” and leave it at that ? as a description of its fruit character namely. But there are certainly more suggestions of cassis and boysenberry; moreover, there is a salinity that supplies counterpoint and adds to the saliva-inducing, stimulating character of the wine’s finish. The small contingent of used barrique is not at all obtrusive (unlike with surprisingly many other wooded Duboeuf cuvees) but adds additional contrast without depriving the wine of refreshment. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463
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